The next section which follows the CAI 00, a long distance track which follows the Appenines down the "spine" of Italy, involves a climb up a steep section of rocky peaks part of which is "ferrato" (provided with a chain or cable for safety), with the first view down to the deep green waters of Lago Santo. Then follows a steady ridge walk up to the summit, where we encountered the second mixed flock of sheep and goats. The different sized bells on their collars provided a medley of music which carried through the still air. We met the shepherd, Luciano Gonnella, resting with his two dogs below the cross which surmounts M. Giovo, at 1991m (6340 feet).

The next section which follows the CAI 00, a long distance track which follows the Appenines down the "spine" of Italy, involves a climb up a steep section of rocky peaks part of which is "ferrato" (provided with a chain or cable for safety), with the first view down to the deep green waters of Lago Santo. Then follows a steady ridge walk up to the summit, where we encountered the second mixed flock of sheep and goats. The different sized bells on their collars provided a medley of music which carried through the still air. We met the shepherd, Luciano Gonnella, resting with his two dogs below the cross which surmounts M. Giovo, at 1991m (6340 feet).

Each morning he walks his flock up to the mountain and returns at night to milk them and produce the pecorino cheese for which this valley is famous. He keeps the cheese for 60 days, at which point he sells it as "fresh" pecorino, or for up to 2 years for "stagionato". After resting at the summit with him, and climbing the cross, we set off down the steep track which leads to Lago Santo, and en-route were joined by a couple from Barga, who walked the rest of the day with us. The path down to Lago Santo (CAI 52) drops 500 metres through banks of wild mirtilli (blueberries) and lampone (wild raspberries) which are in season, and make a tasty refreshener.

Each morning he walks his flock up to the mountain and returns at night to milk them and produce the pecorino cheese for which this valley is famous. He keeps the cheese for 60 days, at which point he sells it as "fresh" pecorino, or for up to 2 years for "stagionato". After resting at the summit with him, and climbing the cross, we set off down the steep track which leads to Lago Santo, and en-route were joined by a couple from Barga, who walked the rest of the day with us. The path down to Lago Santo (CAI 52) drops 500 metres through banks of wild mirtilli (blueberries) and lampone (wild raspberries) which are in season, and make a tasty refreshener.

By the lake there are a number of Rifugi, with restaurants, but we continued to the simple Rifugio Bertagni, owned and maintained by the Commune di Barga for the use of residents. It is a simple hostel with beds for about 20. There we had a lunch break of foccaccia, prosciutto and pecorino followed by fresh fruit, and a doze in the sun. Leaving Lago Santo we followed the CAI 529 which climbs to the Boccaia to the narrow path at the Porticciola (1670 m) where it rejoins the CAI 00 to drop down through beech and chestnut forests to la Vetricia (there is a rifugio with good food open in summer) then on down the forestry track to Renaio. The whole route involves about 6 hours steady walking so it would be possible to do in a day. Alternatively sleep by Lago Santo or, if booked ahead it would be possible to sleep at one of the Rifugi by the lake. Either way it is a memorable trip, suitable for a reasonably fit and competent hill walker. - This is my diary of the walk. Ron Gauld, Casa Fontana, B&B, Barga

By the lake there are a number of Rifugi, with restaurants, but we continued to the simple Rifugio Bertagni, owned and maintained by the Commune di Barga for the use of residents. It is a simple hostel with beds for about 20. There we had a lunch break of foccaccia, prosciutto and pecorino followed by fresh fruit, and a doze in the sun. Leaving Lago Santo we followed the CAI 529 which climbs to the Boccaia to the narrow path at the Porticciola (1670 m) where it rejoins the CAI 00 to drop down through beech and chestnut forests to la Vetricia (there is a rifugio with good food open in summer) then on down the forestry track to Renaio. The whole route involves about 6 hours steady walking so it would be possible to do in a day. Alternatively sleep by Lago Santo or, if booked ahead it would be possible to sleep at one of the Rifugi by the lake. Either way it is a memorable trip, suitable for a reasonably fit and competent hill walker. - This is my diary of the walk. Ron Gauld, Casa Fontana, B&B, Barga