Article by Ian Mitchell in the Sunday Herald
Thanks to hamish, JulieUK and maitland in the barganews forum for pointing this out....
Travel: The charming Tuscan hill town of Barga has proud and enduring connections with Scotland – the perfect place to wash down your fish and chips with a fine Chianti. By Ian Mtchell
THE village of Barga in northern Tuscany claims, with some merit, to be one of Il Borghi piu belli d’Italia. Standing on a wooded hill above the valley of the Serchio River, the walled settlement with its twisting, flagged streets and grand palazzi is a time capsule of centuries-ago Italy, and a more beautiful town indeed would be hard to find.
However, Barga’s second claim to fame is true beyond doubt, it is certainly Il Borgho piu scozzese d’Italia, and the nearest thing Caledonia has had to a colony, owing to its connections with the Italian community in Scotland. This combination of Italian exoticism underlain with Scots familiarity makes this a unique and fascinating place for a holiday.
Barga is a place which exceeds expectations, and any visit there gives you more than you bargained for. Situated in the province of Lucca, Barga has been an important place since the construction of its cathedral in the tenth Century. Coming under the dominance of first Lucca and then Florence, Barga prospered through trade and eventually became integrated into the united Italy, created in 1861.
However, by this time its former glories had gone, and like much of Tuscany, and Italy in general, Barga’s main export was people seeking to escape from the poverty associated with working small plots of land under conditions of feudal exploitation.
Successful emigrants started as street traders and worked themselves up to become owners of groceries, barber shops and restaurants, attracting fellows from their local village. Some Tuscan villages organised a trail to America, some to Argentina, but from bella Barga, as luck would have it, the trail led to Scotland.
These links between Barga and the countries adopted by the emigrants has helped to transform the town, as has the regular jaunts by emigrants back to the place of their birth. Each summer the town is full of Scots-Italians on holiday, which gives it a unique flavour.
“If ye get lost, jist go tae the Gelateria and ask Wanda fur directions,” I was told by one visitor. “She’s fae Rothesay.”
The Italians who settled in Scotland brought our country great benefits. Just on the food front, there’s cappuccino, spaghetti and good ice cream (the Nardini clan of Largs hail from here), but they kept the best to themselves, as a trip to Barga will demonstrate.
Many of the restaurants here belong to families who also have establishments in Dumfries, or Paisley (Barga abounds with Buddies), or Bearsden and Inverness. But gastronomic standards are much higher, and prices are far lower, than in Scotland.
This is Chianti country, and as well as names of those denominazioni you will have heard of at home (but for a fraction of the price), most restaurants and alimentari sell local wines, produced in small quantities, often from the booming organic wine-producing sector. A house wine in one trattoria was, I was told, popular with the Glaswegians because it is 14 per cent proof.
Wine tasting tours are available, and allow the sampling of several wines by small local producers, and the opportunities to purchase them, and include a gastronomic lunch. The food is superb. The hills north of Lucca produce probably the best olive oil in the world, in a bewildering array of varieties, and the woods are the source of the abundant porcini mushrooms which feature in many local dishes.
Buy these mushrooms in local shops and they will cost a fraction of what they do at the airport. The woods are also full of castagni, local chestnuts which feature in many dishes and are also ground into flour for baking, producing excellent crepes and torte. Chestnut flour is also used as the basis of the local polenta which features prominently in the cuisine here.
Other items on the menu are trout from the Serchio River, and wild boar from the woods around the village. Ice cream comes in every conceivable variety, including that made with local frutta di bosco, and most deliciously, one version that looked like it was made with peas, but which turned out to be a delicious sour-apple ice cream.
On the terrace of the Trattoria da Riccardo, just outside the Porta Mancianella, you can have a view of the mountains, and overlook the garden where the vegetables and herbs for your meal are grown, an unfamiliar experience at home. But then the familiar returns.
The most interesting and unique item of local gastronomy comes in the form of a tribute to a culinary tradition of the land which made the fortunes of most of the Italian emigrants to Scotland: fish and chips. For the first two weeks every August the town hosts a festival of Pesce e Patate when you can wash down your fish supper with Chianti.
For a small town, Barga buzzes. In July there is the Barga Jazz Festival where local musicians perform in the open air in the evenings, and you can eat your meal al fresco to a musical accompaniment.
The town has always attracted artists and writers, such as the great poet Giovanni Pascoli who made the town his home a century ago, and died there, in what he called “the land of the beautiful and the good”. You can sit on the balcony at the Caffe Capretz, one of his favourite spots, and look over the flowers on the railings at the spectacular blue-hued Apuane mountains.
The composer Puccini was a friend of Pascoli and a regular visitor to Barga and a whole host of painters known as the Pascoli Generation found inspiration in the town, such as Cordati, Magri and Santini.
The most recent artist to be inspired by Barga is Scotland’s own John Bellany. Though his house is in Garfagnana nearby, Bellany has a gallery in Barga. The town, and what Bellany describes as the “enchanted landscape” around, is a frequent feature in his more recent painting.
Another Scottish artist at home in Barga is Glasgow based Maggie Ramage, who teaches painting at the Villa Bellavista for Artemisia Holidays. There appears to be an exhibition opening every day in Barga (on my first day I went to two), and the local galleries, such as the Casa Cordati have regularly changing exhibitions.
Theatre in Barga dates back centuries to when the Duke and Duchess of the time had their own private performances, and today the Teatro dei Differenti offers exciting summer programmes. On my trip I was able to see the first modern performance of Scarlatti’s opera La Caduta dei Decemviri, and chamber orchestras regularly perform.
You can resist the temptation just to be a people-watching café resident by going on a passagio around Barga itself. The Passegiatta Panoramica lasts around an hour and finishes at the cathedral. This originally Romanesque building has striking marble friezes on the exterior, and inside there is a fine carved marble pulpit and Della Robbia terracottas.
For the more adventurous walker, the Serchio valley lies between the crest of the Appenines, where Scottish-like terrain gives you mountains rising to more than 6000ft, and where Monte Giovo is a worthy objective.
To the west of the Serchio valley lie the slightly lower, but more rugged Alpi Apuane, whose Dolomite-like ridges and summits offer challenging walks, and whose Pania della Croce tantalises when seen from Barga. These mountains have good, marked paths, and Rifugi, where even if you don’t stay overnight, you can buy refreshments.
Near to Barga lies the village of Coreglia Antellmine, cautiously calling itself one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. Coreglia has what must be the world’s only Museum of Emigration, telling of its inhabitants who roamed the world selling plaster religious figurines.
A little further away is Bagni di Lucca, with an Anglican Church associated with the great British poets like Shelley, Byron and the Brownings. It is almost devoid of tourists, and the bagni, where one can take the waters with a steam and mud bath, had only six visitors.
Barga still bustles, but there is no tourist tat, no tourist ‘attractions’, indeed, very few tourists as such, no fast food outlets, no British lager louts. Just a gorgeous town with masses to offer and a people who have a Scots flavouring to their Italian extravagance.
By the end of a week I knew everyone: the gallery owners, the café proprietors, the taxi drivers, even the guys who swept the streets. I met a couple of fellow Scots on the slopes of Monte Giovo and was introducing them in a restaurant to my Barga hosts. At the next table was an Italian family, chatting in Italian and presided over by a formidable matriarch. Hearing my introductions, the matriarch commented in an unmistakable Glasgwegian accent, “Ye might as well introduce us aw while ye’re at it.”
That’s Barga.
24 April 2005